Miller Harris Fragrance: Cassis en Feuille, Poirier d'un Soir: Review

10:22:00 AM


Le Hardin d'Enfance was created for Miller Harris's 15 year anniversary. There are three fragrances in the collection. They are all Eau de Parfums and retail for 65 pounds for a 50 ml glass bottle(about $100). Miller Harris is a niche British brand that used to be sold in the US and is no longer available here. You have to get a UK or other type of site to ship it to you internationally.

Cassis en Feuille is described as "The rambling vines and bountiful fruit of a forgotten garden. Cassis en feuille bursts forth with sparkling Italian bergamot citrus, textured pear and a prism of tart fruity red bourgeons de cassis. Sweet and sour with its many facets, lush and natural earthy green vines of galbanum and tomato leaf encircle and intertwine with blooms of geranium Egypt, and rose. A discovery of hidden treasures, the lingering comfort of this souvenir is a textured bed of cedar wood Virginia and musk." Top notes: bergamot Italy, galbanum, blackcurrant. Middle notes: geranium Eygpt, tomato leaf. Base notes: cedarwood Virginia.

Poirier d'un Soir is described as "Evocative of the warm honeyed blooms that encircle a pear orchid at dusk. Inspired by the contrasting flavours and complex aromas of a ripe pear and its delectable possibilities. Like lights ablaze in a dusking sky, a combination of a fresh Italian bergamot, pear macerating in dark rum extract, black currant and tagete introduce a glimpse of warmth and a touch of caramelised sugar. A rich heart of spice, Turkish rose, peony and birch tar oil leave a smoky and earthy core signature. Shadows of top and heart dry down to a smooth base of ambrette seed, white cedar wood and cashmere wood. Poirier d'un Soir is a memorable delight." Top notes: Bergamot Italy. Middle notes: rum extract, rose Turkey, papyrus India. Base notes: birch tar oil, patchouli oil, white cedarwood.

Coeur de Jardin is described as "A charming and playful narrative of an eclectic garden in full bloom. Crisp, fruity and hesperidic, Coeur de Jardin's story begins with Italian bergamot and lemon, textured pear and peach. The narrative sequence twists and turns with blooms of Turkish rose, jasmine absolute and tuberose absolute. A cacophony of florals and fruits, orris butter, amber, musk, moss and patchouli compete and create the experience of a beautiful addictive sillage." Top notes: bergamot Italy, lemon Italy. Middle notes: rose Turkey, jasmine, tuberose, vanilla. Base notes: orris butter.

I am far from being a fragrance 'nose', I know what I like and don't like in a fragrance. Plus, I don't think anyone ever fully agrees on scents, they smell different to everyone, and change on different skin types, that's why sampling is so great. Try before you buy because how a fragrance is on one person, may be totally different on you. I thought some basic thoughts would help someone thinking of buying these. As with all Miller Harris fragrances, great sillage and longevity.

Cassis en Feuille starts very green, then goes floral, and ends musky. It is almost too green for me as a personal preference. It's not like any Miller Harris I currently own. The most similar I can think of is the Figue Amere which has that green aspect as well, it's been so long since I smelled Figue Amere but I almost feel it was more powdery and floral, Cassis en Feuille is not. There's no powdery or intense white floral aspects to Cassis en Feuille. It feels mostly green, floral, musky. Fragrantica calls this a floral woody musk. You almost have to add aromatic or green and musk to a woody floral to describe this one.

Poirier d'un Soir starts really woody and smoky, that stays pretty much the whole time. You do get some warm scents in the middle to end from the rum, rose and patchouli. The birch really takes over, it's almost too much for me. Those who like La Fumee the original will probably like this. I like La Fumee Ottoman more which feels more oriental and rounded, this has a more smoke and wood feel like La Fumee. Fragrantica calls this a spicy oriental fragrance, I don't get the spicy so much and would go with woody oriental.

I got a small sample of Coeur de Jardin which I tried twice. It's very floral which I'm not a fan off at all. I don't know which Miller Harris to compare it to as I don't buy her florals. I would go with more floral, hint of citrus, not powdery. Fragrantica calls this a floral chypre.

Per the perfume society website:

A Floral Chypre: "In this family, you can enjoy chypre fragrances in which the classic woody, mossy building blocks have been beautifully garlanded with more generous bouquets of flowers, including jasmine and rose, for an impression of sweetness."

A Spicy Oriental: "Just as the name suggests, sweet spices are played up in this oriental family member:  vanilla, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, swirling with exotic white flowers of jasmine and ylang-ylang, and perhaps touches of resins and incense. A sensual – sexy, we’d say – fragrance category."

A Woody Oriental: "Woody elements of sandalwood, rosewood – and patchouli – are used to add extra depth to the traditional oriental spicy notes, adding mystery and depth. Unlike fresh orientals and soft orientals, these are more suited to dressing up, dining out, dancing…"

A Woody Floral: "Woods and flowers. Sounds simple? It sort of is. In this family of fragrances, a bouquet of flowers pulses strongly with woody notes at the base – maybe cedarwood, guaiacwood, even a touch of oudh. (And there are plenty of those around, right now.) Many woody fragrances can seem quite masculine, but the flowers ‘lighten’ them here, making them more feminine."

If you want to read more on fragrance family descriptions: http://perfumesociety.org/discover-perfume/an-introduction/fragrance-families/

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